Denim Dictionary

Denim is a durable cotton or cotton-blend twill textile, typically used to make jeans, jackets, and (for adorable children and highly confident adults) overalls. To create denim fabric, the horizontal weft threads pass under two or more vertical warp threads. This process makes diagonal ribbing of denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck, which may sound like a stuffed animal but is actually the name of a similar twill fabric.

The quintessential American fabric originated far from America. The earliest use of denim refers to a serge material (a twill fabric commonly used in military uniforms) from Nimes, France in the 1850s. Historically, fabrics were named after their place of origin — serge de Nimes later evolved to “de Nim.” The fabric then was not the cotton denim we know today. It was a blend of silk and wool. Today’s all-cotton denim was first created in England and later perfected in American mills.

Denim work pants have been around since as early as the 17th century, when nobody could tell how they looked after 5pm because electricity had not been invented. But the first official blue jean dates back to May 20, 1873, when the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office granted patent #139,121 to Levi Strauss & Co. and Jacob Davis for the process of placing rivets on men’s denim work pants for strength.

Real denim, also known as raw denim or dry denim, refers to denim that hasn’t gone through any pre-washing or shrinking processes in production. Most jeans in stores today have gone through some sort of pre-washing process to soften the fabric and reduce shrinkage post-wear and wash.

An update to the original Levi’s® Trucker Jacket, the Sherpa Trucker Jacket is cold-weather-proof with fuzzy sherpa insulation and soft quilted lining in the sleeves.

The typical western shirt features a stylized yoke (the shaped pattern piece that forms the upper part of the shirt) on the front and back as well as distinct pockets, like a “Barstow” (a Levi's® term for a single-yoke pocket) or “Sawtooth” (another Levi’s® term for a double-yoke pocket) design. Western shirts typically have snap closures instead of buttons to minimize the need for repair.

A sewing technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain-stitched embroidery is so realistic that it actually looks illustrated onto the fabric.

When dye rubs off onto another fabric or surface. Crocking most commonly happens with raw or dark indigo denim, and is the reason no one who works for Levi's® owns a white couch.

A garment’s hemline that’s slightly longer than standard length. Some Levi’s® Commuter™ styles are designed with dropped hems at the back, past your waist and hips, for increased coverage when riding a bike.

The art of using needle and thread to embellish garments. Made popular by hippies in the ‘60s and ‘70s, custom embroidery gives denim a personal, one-of-kind look. We've come a long way since peace signs and rainbow designs. Visit a Tailor Shop near you to create a new embroidery design on your denim pieces.

When sewing two pieces of fabric together — such as the leg of a pair of jeans — about an inch of extra fabric is retained on the outside of the seam to protect it. If left as-is inside the leg, this double-flapped strip will eventually fray and destroy the seam. Flat busted seams are sewn and then pressed flat, creating a reinforced closure that covers raw edges.

Our signature "batwing" logo mirrors the Arcuate stitching on the back pockets of Levi’s® jeans and has become synonymous with Levi’s® authenticity and quality.

The outseam is the measurement along the length of the outside of a pair of pants from the very top to the bottom of the leg. And yes, it's the opposite of an inseam.

Originally added to areas where denim had worn thin, denim patches are also used as a decoration to give jeans a vintage feel.

Refers to the area from the lower hip to the waist. It’s also used to describe the fit through your hip, whether slim, skinny or relaxed.

As seen on Levi’s® Western shirts, a yoke is the shaped pattern piece that forms the upper part of the shirt, usually around the neck or shoulders. The yoke can be curved or straight.

The acid wash process involves washing denim with bleach-soaked stones for a marbled finish. Despite their name, these jeans will not produce a bad trip.

The underlying colors or tones in indigo denim. Depending on dye or technique, denim can have red, green or yellow casts

Distressed jeans feature fraying, slashes or rip-and-repair details to create a lived-in look and feel. That's right, we do the hard work for you.

Specially designed for Levi’s®, this new innovative hemp yarn is soft like cotton — and easily woven into denim styles. So you get the same authentic Levi’s® look and feel in a garment that’s easier on the environment.

Stretch denim is made with a blend of cotton and Elastane (a.k.a. Spandex) for increased comfort and recovery.

Fibers engineered to wick moisture away from the body and provide insulation. Helps you cool off in warm conditions and stay warm in cool conditions.

Water-repellent fabrics are treated with a finish designed to cause water to bead and roll off the fabric surface — great for rainy days (or accidental spills). We use them in some of our outerwear and Levi’s® Commuter™ styles.

Any treatment to jeans after they’ve been cut, sewn and washed to give them a desired surface effect. Common finishes are bleaching, stonewashing and whiskering.

The measurement up the center of a pair of pants, from the inseam to the waist. Common styles are high rise, mid rise and low rise.

A pair of jeans or pants that sits above your natural waist and creates a flattering silhouette.

A pair of jeans or pants that sits just below the natural curve of your waist. A universal favorite, this rise is the most democratic out of the three.

A pair of jeans or pants that sits lower on your waist, closer to your hips. Sits low slung for a casual look.

The width of jeans or pants at the bottom of the leg (or thigh, if they’re shorts). Many of our jeans have the same fit up top but different leg openings to create a range of styles.

Originally designed to fit over work boots, bootcut jeans are built a little wider from knee to ankle. Not just for cowboys.

Original fit jeans or pants are designed with a straight leg and rise that sits at your waist.

A regular fit refers to a straight jean or pant with extra room in your seat and thigh.

Relaxed jeans give you a looser, baggier fit. Probably not the jeans you should wear for lunch with grandma.

Jeans that fit snug from waist to ankle.

Super skinny jeans fit tight from waist to ankle — but not so tight that you can't slip them on and off.